martes, 29 de noviembre de 2016

The spaniard cloak or spanish cloak

Always elegant and distinctive. It is not necessary to be a Spaniard to wear it, but wearing this garment denotes an affinity with a culture and distinguishes the wearer as someone with a character willing to defy time: The Spaniard cloak or Spanish cloak.

Spaniard or Spanish cloak
(Click to enlarge images)

Always made of dark colors, it is a garment that houses and that is very elegant, ideal to wear it with suit.

When to use the Spaniard cloak?

Taking into account or imposing this garment, it is currently associated with the use of costumes such as the Frac (inexcusable), Chaqué or jacket suits with tie; Therefore we have to think about the acts in which we use this type of garments and with low temperatures and we will have the answer. It is the perfect substitute of the coat, only that a coat does not say so much of the one that bears it as the Spanish coat.

There are also versions of modernized cloak for use with sport clothes, but it already departs from the traditional, without being incompatible if not quite the opposite, in the wardrobes of the knights.

Cover of El País weekly with the image of Camilo José Cela wearing a Spaniard cloak the day he received the Nobel Prize for Literature.

Do you need to be Spanish to wear a Spaniard cloak?

No, at all, it is enough to want to be elegant, but we have already said that it denotes for the bearer to have an affinity with a concrete culture. Federico Fellini, Marcelo Mastroianni or Gary Cooper can be mentioned as foreigners who used Spanish coat.

What is the Spaniard cloak made of?

The main material is sheep wool in 90 per cent (the most famous wool for cloaks is that of the village of Bejar), the remaining 10 per cent of goat's wool cashmere. It is also often added a small percentage of polyamide that allows it to resist more wrinkles. The cover (the part that covers the face when the cold churns) in the cloaks of quality is 100 percent cotton velvet.

Spanish Cloak Brooch

History of the Spanish cloak

Many have been written about this Spanish garment. Its origin goes back to the Sagun that the Celtic and Iberian tribes wore in winter in pre-Roman times and that later they were much appreciated by the invaders Roman, little accustomed to the harsh winters of Hispania. This was a
Cloaks open at the sides and fastened with a fibula (metal clasp) on the shoulder. The Arabs left us the bathrobe, hood closed and that gave rise to the ones we used in the shower. In the Middle Ages, the cloak was an obligatory mantle of all estates: hoods for warriors, tabards and she-wolfs for nobles, cloaks for religious, and capotillos for peasants.

By 1550, the cloak showed the lineage, the short length being associated with the nobility, thus, the king was shot at the waist, the gentle men cut it at half-thigh, the craftsmen and minstrels at the knees and the villains in the feet.

XVII century

In the seventeenth century, still used the ferreruelo, short cloak that used to terciar nicely on a shoulder.

Century XVIII

 The eighteenth century the Bourbon dynasty imported French tastes and customs, the courtly cloaks become lighter and more vivid colors. The length of the garment becomes a matter of state and in 1766 caused the so-called Esquilache riot, for this minister of Carlos III ordered that the long cloaks used by the town be cut and the hats modified in order to Make it easier to identify people and stop crime, a common thing in the poorly lit streets of Spain, where anyone could embozarze in the cloak and carry any type of weapon with dissimulation. The disturbances echoed throughout Spain, especially those of the Basque provinces. The king eventually dismissed the minister.

The truth is that despite the resistance, the fashion of the court made a dent and the shorter cloaks became popular in the cities using bright colors, not so among the peasantry.
The color grana was characteristic of the cloaks of the low town.

XIX century

The types are evenly uniformed to all estates, leaving only subtle regional differences, along with logical differences in qualities.

Traditional types of Spanish cloak in the nineteenth century.

- Madrileña or drapery, with enslaved, low collar and colored velvet hood, in green and red velvet. It should get a little below the horseradish.
- Castellana or brown, of brown or brown cloth without alive and with great broches. Must reach ankle height.
- Catalan, wide flights and chapel galoneada.
- Andalusian, shorter slave and shorter length than Madrid.

The Spaniard cloak today

The traditional type of cloaks that has arrived until our days is usually black coat (also dark blue or brown tones) with vivid velvet trunks, with trimmed slave trimmed neck with a clasp.

Various designers are however modernizing the Spanish coat with new shapes that make it more wearable with casual and youth clothing

How to wear the Spaniard cloak?

Attached is a video made by one of the most famous cloak stores on how to use the spanish cloak. We notice that the music is awful and the model does not smile at any time.

How much is a Spanish coat?

The price of a Spanish coat depends on the quality of the materials and especially on the metallic and embroidered decorations. In a good specialist shop in Bejar or Madrid you can get a very decent coat for about 570 euros, being able to surpass the most expensive types 1200 euros. However, look at the date this entry was posted to give you an idea of ​​what the price may have gone up. It is best to always ask for a quote before you buy.

In short, the Spanish coat deserves to be in the wardrobe of any man and the one who wears it knows that it defies the cold and the weather.

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